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Jun 15, 2014  Re: Re-building a Morgan 22 Dave, Look at the 'Stanlock' gasket products listed on the Griffith Rubber Mills, Portland, Oregon site. The part that matches the form of the black rubber gaskets of the 1970's Morgan portlights is the part #.

A kit-built boat can be a mixed blessing. If you find a boat that was finished by a skilled craftsman, it could be a better boat than a factory-assembled version. On the other hand, it could also be a disaster. Since the quality control of a kit boat is monitored only by the person building it, an extremely careful survey is required. No matter how well executed it may be, an owner-completed kit boat rarely sells for more than a factory-finished version of the same boat. Most buyers would rather have a boat with a known pedigree, even if the pedigree is pretty average.

Conclusions The Morgan 34 is similar in design and concept to the more-popular Tartan 34, which dates from the same period. By comparison, the Tartan 34 is lighter, faster, and has less wetted surface, since it lacks the Morgan’s full keel. As a rule, we prefer the Tartan 34’s construction details, although Morgan owners report somewhat less gelcoat crazing and deck delamination. In 1970, the Morgan 34 and the Tartan 34 were almost identical in price.

Two different aft galley arrangements were options. In one, the dinette is retained, with a settee opposite. In the other, the dinette is replaced by a settee and pilot berth. Choosing between these two is purely a matter of taste. The pilot berth layout gives three sea berths in the main cabin.

All were available as no-extra-cost options. In the most common layout, the galley occupies the starboard side of the main cabin, with a dinette opposite. This arrangment was fairly common in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Story Tools • • • • Morgan 24/25 She's fast and roomy, but plagued by centerboard problems that are tough to avoid. Back in 1965, a St.

Richard - This is a manual for a Morgan 41, circa 1978/1979. I have found it is almost identical in many respects to my 38-2, except for length (duh!), sail plan, and plumbing (the 41's had a second head). But note that when I got my 38-2, it was from the original owner, and he had made very few modifications or changes to the original boat. For that reason, the wiring and the plumbing were both easy to figure out. If your PO had made significant upgrades, I'm not sure this source will help you much. Morgan Out Island 41 Manual.pdf. Richard, I inquired about scanning the document at the local Staples Office Supply.

Related Files •.

Thus, for safety and other reasons, it is a good idea to verify information here to make sure it matches up with your boat. For additional information, we recommend the iboats forums and a boating safety course.

Albacore Association • U.S. Int’l 420 Class Association • U.S. Int’l Europe Class Association • U.S. Int’l Finn Class Association • U.S. Int’l Fireball Association • U.S. International 14 Association • U.S. J/24 Class Association • U.S.

Soling Association • U.S. Sunfish Class Association • U.S.

Later boats have an airfoil fiberglass board of almost neutral bouyancy. There’s a lot less wear and tear on the wire pennant with the glass board. You may find a Morgan 34 that has been owner-finished from a hull or kit. Sailing Kit Kraft was a division of Morgan, and you could buy most of the Morgan designs in almost any stage of completion from the bare hull on up.

They can/will scan it and place the PDF file on a usb drive for fifty cents per page. The 382 manual is 114 single sided pages. Thus the cost would be $57.

The original jib sheet winches were Merriman or South Coast #5s. Compared to modern winches, they are slow and lack power. For anything other than casual daysailing, you’ll want to upgrade to modern two-speed self-tailing winches for the genoa.

Most boats left the factory with a fair number of options, but you may not find a lot of things that would be standard today. In general, the construction and design of the Morgan 34 are suited to fairly serious coastal cruising. We would not consider the boat for offshore passagemaking without improving cockpit scuppers, companionway and hatch sealing, cockpit locker sealing, and bilge pumps. Interior The Morgan 34 dates from the heyday of woodgrained Formica interiors.

Almost unanimously, owners in our survey state that the boat is next to impossible to back down under power in any predictable direction. With a solid two-bladed prop in an aperture, reverse efficiency is minimal with no prop wash over the rudder. A 26-gallon Monel fuel tank was standard. Monel, an alloy of copper and nickel, is one of the few tank materials that serves equally well for gasoline, diesel oil, or water.

Early Morgan designed production boats included the Columbia 40 and the Columbia 31. In 1962, Morgan Yacht went into business to build the 28' Tiger Cub. In 1965, the company really got rolling, building the Morgan 26, the 36, and the 42. In 1966 the Morgan 34 was added to the line.

Despite a 40% ballast/displacement ratio, the boat is not particularly stiff. She is narrow, and the shoal draft keeps the vertical center of gravity quite high. The boat is quite easy to balance under sail in moderate conditions, thanks to a narrow undistorted hull, a long keel with the rudder well aft, and a centerboard.

That’s right, there’s no nav station in this boat: we’re talking the late 1960s, when a boat with a radio, a depthsounder, and a knotmeter was heavily equipped with electronics. There is reasonable storage space throughout the boat.

The last Morgan 25s were built in 1976. Over the years, between 400 and 500 were built.

The interior trim on a lot of Morgan 34s is walnut, which is a pretty drab wood, even when varnished. For an extra $400 or so you could get teak trim.

Interior The 24s and 25s at various times were made with two different interior arrangements: (1) a dinette model with a single sail locker to port, and (2) a two-quarterberth model with twin sail lockers. The dinette version has less space for sail stowage, and there is a considerable amount of wasted space under the starboard cockpit seat unless an access hole is cut in the plywood bulkhead aft of the quarterberth (which is often done). For cruising, however, the dinette model wins hands down, given the greater storage space in the galley and a hanging locker, better privacy inherent in the position of the offset head, and a sizable table for dining or laying out charts. Sitting at the dinette is uncomfortable for four people due to the deck overhanging the outboard seats. In all, most agree that the 24/25 is really a two-sleeper, two-eater vessel. There were two interior layouts offered. This one has anchor and sail lockers, but the alternative (a dinette arrangement) has more overall interior room, with a long galley counter and hanging locker.

The I scanned most of the manual at 150 dpi to keep the file size manageable. I scanned the drawings at 300 dpi to improve legibility but alas, the manual is a copy of a copy and the overall quality suffers.

Because this information has come from many sources we can not guarantee its accuracy. Even if this information is the same as the original factory specs, boats are sometimes modified.

Ballast: 1400 lbs. Sail Area/Disp.1: 19.69 Bal./Disp.: 51.84% Disp./Len.: 143.45 Designer: Charles Morgan Builder: Morgan Yachts (USA) Construction: FG Bal. Type: Lead First Built: 1968 Last Built: 1971 # Built: RIG AND SAIL PARTICULARS I(IG): 27.00' / 8.23m J: 8.50' / 2.59m P: 23.50' / 7.16m E: 10.50' / 3.20m PY: EY: ISP: SPL/TPS: SA(Fore.): 114.75 ft 2 / 10.66 m 2 SA(Main): 123.38 ft 2 / 11.46 m 2 Sail Area (100% fore+main triangles): 238.13 ft 2 / 22.12 m 2 Sail Area/Disp.2: 19.70 Est. Forestay Length.: 28.31' / 8.63m BUILDERS (past & present) More about & boats built by: DESIGNER More about & boats designed by: PLEASE LIKE AND FOLLOW US © 2003-2018 sailboatdata.com All rights reserved.

Hi RTL, Yes, it can be quite frustrating finding info on these boats. And there is no such thing as the world's greatest or most knowledgeable sailor: they don't exist - we're all just making it up as we go along.;-P I can only help you with the following: 1) My boat has a CDI jib furler, with a self-contained halyard, so there is no jib halyard on the mast, although there are four sheaves in the masthead. The main halyard does indeed go through the masthead, and is led aft to a clutch on the port cabin top. I intend to change this setup to a swivel cleat arrangement on the mast for easier reefing. I have no idea what that block by your spreader is for.

More importantly, the right maintenance, care, and equipment can help you to have a safer, more enjoyable time on the water. Information on this page is provided to you as a free service of iboats.com.

In 1965 the Morgan brochure says “mahogany interior trim” but by 1967 the standard interior was “bulkheads. Paneled in woodgrained mica, with oiled American Walnut trim.” Carpeted cabin sole was standard, with a teak sole optional. A common complaint among owners is that there is no good place to store a portable gas tank. The usual place is in the cabin, aft of the companionway ladder, but that can be a source of annoying—and dangerous—fumes. A 6-gallon tank can be wedged between the cockpit seats, but limits footroom and movement around the cockpit, and the extra weight in the cockpit does nothing to help performance. Other complaints include the fact that the icebox drain runs into the bilge, providing a source of potential odors; and that ventilation is only so-so. A cowl vent fitted on the foredeck, plus a mushroom vent over the forward hatch, are recommended additions.

There’s a decent amount of exterior teak on this boat, including the cockpit coamings, toerail, grabrails on the cabin, drop boards, hatch trim, and cockpit sole. Check the bedding and fastening of the cockpit coamings carefully. If you want to varnish coamings that have been either oiled or neglected, it may be necessary to remove and rebed them. Exterior appearance of older boats such as the Morgan 34 is greatly improved by varnishing the teak trim. It particularly spiffs up boats with the faded gelcoat that is almost inevitable after 20 years of use.

The rig is a simple, fairly low aspect ratio masthead sloop, using a slightly-tapered aluminum spar, stepped through to the keel. Although there are double lower shrouds, the forward lowers are almost in line with the center of the mast, with the after lowers well behind the mast. On a lighter, more modern rig, this shroud arrangement would just about require a babystay, but on the stiff masts of the late 1960s, it would be essentially superfluous. Early boats in the series have wooden spreaders. Unless well cared for, they can rot.

I am not the worlds greatest or most knowledgeable sailor, so I have some questions about rigging the boat. 1) There seem to be three halyards going up the mast. One (from the top) is the mainsail. The second from the top is the jib. However there is a third which has a pulley (block) just by the spreader. I have no ide what that is for. 2) I think that the jib halyards run from the jib OUTSIDE the stays, and then down the side of the cabin through the pulley-on-a-slider to the winch.

With the standard tiller, the mainsheet location is a bit of a problem, since the helmsman sits almost at the forward end of the cockpit. This is fine for racing, when the helmsman does nothing but steer, but it is awkward for shorthanded cruising. Like a lot of boats with low aspect mainsails, the Morgan 34 tends to develop weather helm quite quickly as the breeze builds.

Most such gear is repairable, but at a cost. Still, if you find one on which extensive work isn’t necessary, it can be a real bargain as well as a real pleasure to own and use. In 1972 the Morgan 25 had a base price of $7,495. Earlier models in reasonable condition can be had today for about $5,000, more depending on sail inventories end equipment. Inboard models of the 25 are higher yet, though we feel the outboard model is a better choice. The Morgan 24/25 makes a wonderful small cruiser and club racer, and can be a solid value if you buy the right boat.

The cockpit sole slopes aft to a single centerline scupper through the transom, and this works satisfactorily except for a puddle of water that gathers on the leeward side in rain, and except for the smallish scupper size (1-1/4' diameter), which some owners have enlarged for faster drainage. The base M/24 was offered as a relatively bare cruising version, with small (#2) South Coast sheet winches, end-boom sheeting without a traveler, short genoa tracks along the toerails, and no spinnaker gear. An extra-cost optional “racing package” included spinnaker gear, #3 genoa winches, longer genoa track, six extra cleats, two extra genoa cars, boom vang, snatch blocks, and traveler. Other extras included stainless bow pulpit, lifelines and stanchions, interior and running lights, and compass. The factory-installed options were fairly expensive, with the result that many sailors bought the base version and added equipment themselves. That, plus the fact that M/24s were available at one point as kits, may account for the wide variation in quality, style, and placement of equipment.

Paint, varnish, and nice fabric cushions would make a Cinderella of an interior that is reasonably roomy, laid out well, and uncluttered. Ventilation in the main cabin isn’t great. There’s no overhead ventilation hatch, although there’s room to install one. Once again, the stock two small fixed ports may have been replaced with optional opening ports—a plus, but a small one. A single long oval fixed port on either side of the main cabin gives the boat a very dated look. It would be tempting to remove the aluminum-framed port and replace it with a differently-shaped smoked polycarbonate window mounted on the outside of the cabin trunk and bolted through.

The 1/8-inch stainless steel pennant wire attaches at one end of a groove molded into the top of the board, winds its way via a stainless steel piston through a stuffing box to a turning sheave forward, then through two more sheaves an to a small winch mounted on the cockpit wall. Several problems can arise due to this design. The lower portion of the pennant, being exposed to seawater, tends to corrode rapidly, and is impossible to inspect without complete disassembly. Hence frequent inspection, requiring a haul-out or scuba gear, is advised.

The main halyard does indeed go through the masthead, and is led aft to a clutch on the port cabin top. I intend to change this setup to a swivel cleat arrangement on the mast for easier reefing.

Richard - Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the board. My wife and I are in the process of re-fitting hull #115 a M382 built in 1979. Are you sure your hull, #128, is not a 1979? A copy of the original M382 owner's manual was on board Pilgrim when we purchased the vessel. Manual Unfortunately we do not have a efficient way to scan the document.

By today’s standards, the Morgan 34 is a small boat, comparable in accommodations to a lot of 30-footers. When the boat was designed, she was as big as most other boats of her overall length. In profile, the boat has a sweeping, moderately concave sheer. The ends of the boat are beautifully balanced: the bow profile is a slight convex curve, the overhanging counter aft is slightly concave. Esthetically, hull shapes of this period from the best designers are still hard to beat. Sailing Performance With a typical PHRF rating of 189, the Morgan 34 is not as fast as some of the more competitive cruiser/racers of the same vintage, such as the Tartan 34.

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The cockpit is very large, larger than desirable for offshore sailing. In addition, there is a low sill between the cockpit and the main cabin, rather than a bridgedeck. You can block off the bottom of the companionway by leaving the lower dropboard in place, but this is not as safe an arrangement as a bridgedeck. Cockpit scuppers are smaller than we would want for offshore sailing. Molded fiberglass hatches are in most cases more watertight than badly designed or maintained wooden hatches, but they are almost never as good as a modern metal-framed hatch. They’re simply too flexible.

Story Tools • • • • Morgan 34 A handsome shoal-draft keel/centerboarder well-suited to cruising the Keys or the Chesapeake. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, the names Charley Morgan and Ted Irwin were practically synonymous with Florida boatbuilding. Charley Morgan was definitely one of the designers and builders that shaped the early and middle years of fiberglass sailboat building. Morgan designs from that period run the gamut from cruising houseboats—the Out Island series—to the 12 meter sloop Heritage, the 1970 America’s Cup defense candidate that Morgan designed, built, and skippered. But before Heritage, before the Out Island series, Charley Morgan designed cruiser/racers to the CCA rule. His successful one-off boats were typified by Paper Tiger, Sabre, and Maredea.

Construction As one owner puts it, only slightly mixing metaphors, “The Morgan is a Chevrolet, not a Hinckley.” For the most part, owners mention defects in passing but on the whole are very satisfied. One says his forward V-berth bulkhead came loose and had to be refastened, but also reports that fiberglass work is generally neat and strong.